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Did you have a car and did you scratch your head for the sound system of your car? Is there any experience of “squeaking†a side companion while pulling a tweezers at high speed? It's time to make a soundproofing project for cars! This will cut you off and say goodbye to noise.
Car soundproofing products originated in the late 1980s and were developed by a group of car audio enthusiasts in the United States in order to better enjoy the pleasure brought by car stereos. These products can reduce the noise in the car during driving. Can improve the car sound pressure and sound. Therefore, the soundproofing of cars was originally created for car enthusiasts who really love cars. The purpose is to make the lives of more car owners sublime perfectly and enjoy more wonderful driving pleasure.
There are many reasons to do noise, some people are too car noise to upgrade their car's sound. However, for whatever reason, for the owner of the car, the price of soundproofing on the market is not cheap, especially when it comes to soundproofing the whole car, and the cost is even more expensive. On the contrary, doing it yourself is another matter. In fact, the owner will not only save money but also gain a sense of accomplishment.
Soundproofing function
1. Through the sound insulation and vibration damping materials, the car's sheet metal is damped and sealed to improve the defects of the speaker's installation environment and restore the sound pressure and sound quality of the car stereo.
2. Through the sound insulation and vibration damping materials, the car is subjected to vibration damping and sound insulation treatment to reduce the noise transmitted by the automobile sheet metal structure and improve driving comfort.
Doors and sound insulation construction Here we take the door sound insulation construction as an example to teach you to create a soundproof film for your car.
STEP1: After the car is opened to a safe place, it is hand-braking and flameout to ensure safe operation.
STEP2: Remove the interior parts in order of outside and inside to expose the work surface. Place the removed screws and buckles into a special sealed plastic bag and mark the removal location and place it in the designated place. When disassembling, you must pay attention to the disassembly technique. Do not use brute force or excessive force to damage the panel and paint. All clips use special lifting tools.
STEP3: Use a tar cleaning agent to thoroughly clean the working surface. All dirt, grease, water, and rust must be cleaned. When dealing with difficult-to-remove attachments (rubber, glass fiber, etc.), try using other special solvents before dissolving and then slowly removing the attachment with a special spatula; or use a hot air gun to remove the attachment after it is evenly heated. Never use open flame or high-temperature heating at the work station. Do not use corrosive solvents to prevent damage to the paint and the panel. Finally wipe the work surface thoroughly with a clean rag. Deal with attachments must pay attention to the strength and direction to prevent scratching the paint and scratch the panel. After using the cleaning agent, be sure to cover the lid in time to prevent the detergent from volatilizing and knocking over the detergent bottle.
STEP4: The soundproof material can be pressed into a mold on the work surface, and then it can be divided into corresponding size and shape of the required working surface by using a scissors or a paper knife on the workbench. If necessary, the paper can be cut into a model first. Reload. When cutting, avoid splicing as much as possible and repeat feeding.
STEP5: Remove the protective kraft paper on the back of the sound insulation material and stick it on the work surface. When the work surface is relatively large, the protective kraft paper is peeled off while it is affixed to the work surface, and it is compacted using a special roller. When there is a bubble, use a paper knife to pick it out and press the air out so that the sound insulation material is tightly attached to the work surface. Care must be taken when using scissors or paper cutters on the work surface to avoid cutting the lines and scratching the work surface. The small materials and scraps should be attached to the parts with poor inner strength to further improve the effect of noise reduction and noise reduction.
STEP6: Put the interior parts back from the inside to the outside as they are. During the installation process, all components must be returned as they are; all screws and snaps must be tightened and fastened to avoid secondary noise.
After construction effect
The sound of door closing was obviously boring. When the vehicles passed over the canal, ditch and bumpy road, the sound of the luggage compartment became solid. When the speed was 60~80km/h, the road noise became more frivolous and smoother. The external environment was introduced into the car. The noise is also significantly reduced; the acoustic environment is significantly improved, the bass effect is more full, the leveling of music is enhanced, and the high, medium and low frequencies are very clear, and the sound quality is effectively improved.
Sound insulation construction sequence of all vehicles Door → Luggage → Floor → Front fender → Engine compartment (six-cylinder engine is not recommended) → Roof (with sunroof models not recommended)
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